Trying to Design My Own A.R.T.
Sometimes Things Don't Go As Envisioned.
Ultramarathon #116 | FKT #003 - Arnold Rim Trail (ART)
My Personal Background of the Arnold Rim Trail (ART)
OUTBOUND - the First Half (0.0 - 22.8 Mi): smooth and steady
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| Taken just prior to setting off at the 0.0 Mi trailhead sign in Arnold at the Logging Museum. Photo: Katie Meding. |
The outbound journey was pretty straightforward and uneventful (as planned). Climbing up to the highest peak of the route I was treated to the rising sun in the distance behind me which created a nice orange glow to the cloudy solo morning. It was truly peaceful and fulfilling out there in the forest.
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| sunrise on my way up to Manuel Peak (4,445 ft+), the highest point on the ART route. Taken at 06:18 just under an hour into the run. |
After cresting the high point I followed the ridgeline admiring the vast views to my right. I paused briefly on the Top of the World took in the view and then made a strategic decision here to drop/place one of my 32oz electrolyte drinks here for the way back just to save some weight on my back. I found a nice log not far off the trail and placed my bottle underneath (foreshadow alert!). I continued onward passed Cougar Rock the followed the ART as it dipped back into the forested area which somewhat parallels Highway 4 between Arnold and Hathaway Pines.
Everything going smooth as I dropped down over Avery Sheep Ranch Road and into the San Domingo section towards the Heliport and ultimately the southern terminus of the ART (Fullen Rd). The morning thus far had provided overcast cloudy conditions, which was a huge change from the week as it had been sunny and low 90s in Arnold. I very much appreciated the cooler running conditions this day (foreshadow alert #2!). Looking across the Arnold rim has always been a pleasant sight as I am grateful to move through the Stanislaus National Forest and be able to do these type of activities.
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| Pointing out the Heliport pad (@18.9/22.8 Mi) in the distance across the Arnold rim. |
Passing the Heliport I knew there was just under 4 miles to the end of the ART. I continued to move well even as the sun started to poke through the clouds at random short intervals. Luckily this final portion of trail is covered quite well inn shade from the tall surrounding trees of the forest. With just over a mile to go the trail finally stops descending down from the rim (again...) into the bottom where San Domingo Creek lies and then it is a steep 1.2 Mi climb back out to Fullen Rd and the current end of the ART route, where I would turn around. I made another strategic decision here; I took off my vest and splashed my face and neck with the cool creek waters. I took only 1 handheld and my phone (to document) with me for the last climb to the turnaround point. This would give my back a slight break of having to carry my pack before the journey back to Arnold.
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| Half way @ Fullen Rd trailhead (22.8 Mi) |
INBOUND - the Second Half (22.8 - 45.6 Mi): wheels have fallen off
I left Fullen Rd heading back down to the San Domingo Creek to retrieve my vest and push onwards. My goal was to have my longer "halfway break" here in the shade and at the creek to cooldown (the 3.5 minute stop at the top was a simple photo op and snack break). For reference the starting temperature was about 73f in the morning at Arnold, 90f during my first crossing of San Domingo creek outbound, 95f at the turnaround point on Fullen Rd, and did reach a high point of 104f during my inbound journey according to my Garmin-STRAVA data. It felt all of that and more admis the rock backdrop of the rim wall in places.
At San Domingo Creek back at my vest I simply put my plan in place, sat down, organized my bottles drinks as I had pre-planned for the inward trek, got out my snack bags, took off my socks and shoes, and then lowly ate calories as I shuffled my lower body into the creek to lower my temperature. Luck was on my side as there were no mesquites present near the flowing creek at this time of day - a true blessing. I took a full 15 minute break here in the water fully submersed my legs and the occasional dunking of my full body to keep myself wet and cool.
After my break I thought it was sufficient time to cooldown and I certainly felt better, so I got up put my hydration vest back on and trudged forward. The next few miles were some of the hottest sections of the day as the Arnold Rim Trail winded back out of the trees onto more exposed portions of the trail with rock as the background to the piercing afternoon sun. Suddenly I felt super tired and drained only 5 Mi back on the inbound. I took 2 separate dirt trail naps in the shade because I felt my heart rate spiking in the heat and I had no other solution at the time. I could literally feel my time goal(s) slipping away quickly. My ART run was no becoming more about survival and simply getting the near 46 Mi journey completed altogether. There was another tiny creek that I had dipped my hat in on the way out that I saw had a spot big enough to sit in and submerged my legs again. This was around 31.8 Mi and I took time here to drastically cool my core temperature by soaking in the water - it helped a lot, but I was way behind my own expectations. Ultrarunning is a lot about overcoming adversity and simply pursuing forward progress even when things are not going your way on the day. My FKT attempt was now on this track.
Two things lie in front of me I was grasping onto to pull me towards the end of this run. First was the Cowell Creek crossing around marker 7.8 Mi. Secondly, the Top of the World peak where I had placed my 32oz bottle about marker 5.5 Mi was going to be refreshing and the hydration I needed to get me through.
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| This look basically sums up my inbound journey on the ART today. |
Pressing on the shade of the trees again was a welcome brief relief from the peak heat of the afternoon even as the ambient temperature was still elevated. Finally reaching the creek with 8 miles to go I again took a few minutes and literally submerged my entire body in the small narrow creek. After a couple minutes of cooling down I felt my energy and draw of the finish rise again within me. I was able to move a little better and faster again after my dousing. I only had a little bit of my water on me left so I was rationing it and timing it to reach the Top of the World and my last bottle.
I took another sip from my bottle shaking it to see how little was left. Not far now....almost to the peak....
I arrived up the little grind my Cougar Rock up to Top of the World. I took a v-line directly for where I had stashed my bottle on my outbound trip, anxiously awaiting to refill my 2 soft flasks which were essentially dried up now. Wait....what!?....where is my bottle??? I checked under the log I placed it and looked around close by but nothing, no empty bottle, no signs of anything. I sat down for a minute and had a big pity party as I starred into my soft flask with about 2 oz of fluid left - that was it. It was 90f and I was nearing dehydration already cutting it close on fluid consumption and really counting on this last 32 oz bottle on being here. At last it was not and I realized there was literally nothing I could do about it except press on and somehow grind it out. Super slow and steady I kept moving and paced myself with lots of walk/hike breaks trying not to over exert myself at this point. Time goals were all gone and now it was just about finishing up the ART and setting a time on the FKT board, even if it was a lot slower. I took tiny sips just to wet my lips every half mile or so, saving the little fluid I had. My mouth was starting to hurt from dryness.
I finally reached the paved portion of the path, which meant I just had the initial 0.8 Mi to go to the 0.0 Mi trailhead start. This was my sign to finish off my drink and get home! I passed a pair of backpackers (one of only a couple people I saw out there all day) as I managed to run a little back into the parking lot. I saw my van there as my wife was there awaiting to pick me up. I ran passed the trailhead sign, stopped took a quick pic of my watch, and promptly asked for water. I downed an entire single serve water bottle and asked for more. Two minutes of catching my breath then I took of my pack and chatted briefly with my wife while we went the 150 feet or so down to White Pines Lake where I grabbed a cold coke & Athletic Brewing non-alcoholic Run Wild IPA and went and sat in the water to cool down as I attempted to rehydrate. A short 15-20 minute soak and then I got out and dried off as we headed back to the cabin for a proper shower and cleanup.
I had envisioned a grand piece of ART today, but it did not quite turn out the way I wanted. I was a full 3.5 hours behind my A-goal (10 hours) and 1.5 hours behind what I thought was the realistic goal (12 hours). The heat of the day had come out to play and spit me out. The thing about ultrarunning is you never know and just have to roll with what the day gives you. Time to recover and finish up my training block as I look forward to #AC100 in just under 3 weeks.
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| My Garmin showing my time (official stopped at 13:39:59) back in the Logging Museum parking lot. |
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| My STRAVA route and splits. |
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| Aftermath of my scratched-up legs from the rugged and less-used portions of the ART trail where wild thorny plants took over most of the singletrack. It was not as bad as the prior year in 2023 when I ran one-way ART route, however the thorns still persisted out there. |
Official FKT route link: Arnold Rim Trail (CA) | Fastest Known Time
My STRAVA link and data: Arnold Rim Trail (out & back) FKT, Arnold, CA | Run | Strava
Gear Used
- Shirts - rabbit SS rabbitELITEtrail team kit, rabbit LS UPF deflector 2.0 with hood
- Shorts - rabbit 5" shredders 2-in-1 trail
- Headwear - rabbit (rnnr) rabbitELITEtrail team kit
- Shoes - ACSIS GEL-Trabuco 13
- Socks - DryMax
- Hydration - NATHAN Pinnacle 12L race pack with (x2) 20oz soft flasks, and also (x2) 18oz handheld soft flasks
- Watch - Garmin fēnix® 6X - Pro Solar Edition
- Other - iPhone with Gaia GPS app (as a backup to my watch)
Final Thoughts on the ART
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Overall, the ART is super well marked having proper (and new) signposts along the way and at every single junction. It would take a lot for someone to get lost or off-track as it is that simple to follow even if you have never been there.
The southern section down passed Avery Sheep Ranch Road coming out of Avery, CA is quite remote and off-grid per say. You are no longer next to the town directly at this point and so your only way out is either end of the trail. This being said my favorite section is probably the San Domingo miles because of this remoteness and the vast views down the valley you get as you traverse multiple times up and down the rim itself. The heliport (18.9 Mi) is right next to Highway 4 as this used to be the end of the ART trail, but now continues on to Fullen Rd where it is super remote, and nothing is there at all except a trailhead sign along this lonely secondary back road. If you are starting or finishing here you will need to arrange a ride ahead of time. Also of note that I did not have cell service for majority of the entire trail, only small portions on the high points (I currently have AT&T provider). Might be a good idea to carry a Garmin InReach or similar satellite tracker for safety.
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