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Saturday, May 18, 2024

To Hell and Back

A Taste of True Beast Coast Trails

Ultramarathon #115 | A New HR Qualifier in North Carolina

Pre Race

16 hour driving time - TX to NC.
Headed East I travelled late Wednesday night and through most of Thursday to make the 16-hour drive time to get myself out to Old Fort, North Carolina. I arrived at Camp Grier just outside of town right as the pre-race meeting was kicking off. I had arrived without a minute to spare.  I had made the trek in around 20 hours total time which included my stops for fuel, snacks, and sleep (a mini ultra in itself). I hustled up to the crowd gathered and listened in on the information being put forth by the race directing crew.  All the usual stuff was being touted but I paid close attention when they did the course description and preview. Once all the pertinent information was passed out I got myself near the front of the line up for the free dinner put on by the Camp Grier for all the runners. After my fill, I walked back over to my car and got my shoes on - time for a little shakeout run to get the blood flowing in the legs after the long travel. I looked on the STRAVA map and picked a trail I would not be running in the morning, and just went for a couple miles out and back before sunset.

pre race briefing & quick shakeout run at Camp Grier.
I took a few minutes to sort out my gear and pack up my vest for the morning, so everything was ready to go. I nestled down in my car for the night in the car camping spots right across from the start/finish. It was a nice convenient spot and due to the long travel I was pretty tired and went to sleep quickly.  The early 04:30 start time was quickly approaching....

The Run

The morning sky was dark but clear as the stars were clearly visible above through the gaps in tree tops. What a beautiful day to run 100 Miles I thought to myself as I stood there awaiting the countdown. I was ready and excited to explore the North Carolina mountains. Off we went into the darkness of the early morning with the first few miles uphill on a easy gravel road to get us settled in.... I started in the near back of the pack at the start in order to govern myself off the start. This being a known hard race I knew that patience at the start would be key to a successful finish. The first sunlight was around 06:30 so we had 2 hours of low light conditions which also helped slow me down a bit on the start.

I settled into hiking all the ups (which was a lot at the start) and running the flats and downs, while trying to remain in control of my pace and not blow out my quads too early. The sun was out early as it crept up over the background of the mountains and peering through the trees. The humidity was high to start and felt quite warm as soon as we had begun moving early in the morning. The trails were rooty and rocky as we climbed up headed for the first high point. I kept patient and tried to throttle my pace again on the next big downhill, all the way down from ~5,200 ft+ losing all 3k of elevation (and more) that I had just earned on the previous climb. From there is was right back up the other mountain from 2,000 ft+ back to ~5,000 ft+ again. There was a remote water aid station setup here out of a van on the side of the road. Super low key, but done right by some awesome couple of volunteers whom offered up anything and helped fill up my bottles. I took off my hydration vest and grabbed a selfie of the NC mountainous scenery from the road lookout, because why not?

Blue Ridge Parkway (Green Knob) water drop station (mile 27.5). Nearing 7 hours into race time.

After a quick hydration stop I dropped only about 2k of elevation loss on my way to Neals Creek aid station for the 1st time (outbound) which equated to having completed ~50 km (31.7 Mi) at this point now. Not studying the map super closely before hand I knew that the biggest climb (Mount Mitchell) was in the front portion of the course but once I got into the second major climb I thought this was it...however I was mistaken as I had to grind all the way up, then run all the way back down before taking on the long 5.75 Mi grind up to the summit of Mitchell. I think for some reason I thought this summit was ~50 km into the race, but in reality is was just over 60 km into the course. No matter I was not super bummed on that aspect, I just had it in my mind from the quick map glances it was sooner. 

Leaving the campground at the bottom this trailhead was clearly well used and you could tell the trail was a popular hiking destination. There were sign posts half mile on the way up signaling the distance done as well as remaining. I passed many people, most on their way back down at this point in the day at it was reaching later afternoon now. As I gained in elevation the clouds were growing darker in the distance, although I did not think too much of it yet. Next thing I knew I was slowly making my way to the very top. I had found m way to the highest point on the East Coast and obviously highest point of the course.

Mount Mitchell 6,684 ft+. (mile 38).

After taking a quick video at the top of Mount Mitchell on the platform I came down and headed towards the picnic area not far below where the aid station was set up. As you can see from the video clip it was windy and the rain clouds were coming in quite fast at this point, although I still did not realize how fast. I got into the small semi-enclosed area at the picnic shelter and asked for some warm soup & broth from the aid station volunteers. and just like that it started getting darker and darker, and then in an instant it started just pouring as a couple more runners came into the aid picnic shelter seeking cover from the elements. 

Mt. Mitchell Picnic Area (mile 38.2). Taken only maybe 5 minutes after my video above. I was already cold and brought out my rabbit Treeline rain jacket. Photo: Schreiner Trail Photography

I did not want to linger too long up here, as it was the highest point, it was exposed and thus a little cold from the wind and now rain, and plus I was getting colder by the minute by not moving and generating heat. I layered up and prepared to head out into the rain, with another lady and her pacer. The three of us pressed on leaving Mitchell and following the trail along the ridge. This section of ridge running was slow going and very technical on a good day. The was large step downs and step ups a few ropes set up in one section, and just nasty pointy rocks everywhere. Made worse by Mother Nature as she was making herself known as it was not long after setting out from the aid station before the hail started. I simply put my rain hood up and continued on with the 2 ladies as we all worked together grinding through these ~3.5 ridge miles....very....very...slowly. I pulled out my gloves and put them on too even though they got soaked instantly they did provide a slight warmth to my cold hands as the temperature dropped significantly since the storm moved in. 

STRAVA segment: Mt Mitchell North to Colbert Ridge | Strava Run Segment in North Carolina
My stats= time: 1h 40min, pace: 26:33 min/Mi
This ridge run goes from Mt. Mitchell northward over Mount Craig, Big Tom, Balsam Cone, Cattail Peak, Potato Hill then finally descends down to Deep Gap. The STRAVA segment ends here and continues onto Colbert Ridge to the aid Colbert's Creek (46.3 Mi).

The trail was literally flowing as the rain began to pick up and really soak us to the core. BOOOOM! A loud crack of thunder was not that far off as the storm was passing directly over us now. Not exactly the ideal time to be at the highest section of the race. But I also knew that going forward would take me down in elevation (eventually), whereas turning around would only take me back to the highest point of Mount Mitchell - really it was not even a choice or something I thought of. A big flash came followed by the loud crackle. The storm was gaining in proximity. In total there were 4 flashes of lightning that I saw around us up there on the ridge. I felt relatively safe as we were amongst trees...and well I did not want to stop moving and get even colder. Onward I went, leap frogging with the 2 ladies as we slashed in the accumulating mini river on the trails. This was by far the coldest and wettest I was during the race as the rain continued to pound down. Luckily the lightning portion passed over relatively quickly and moved on. 

Once the ridge run portion of this segment was over it was another 4 miles straight down rocky wet rocky terrain all the way to the next aid station. This was the near half way point of the race. It is listed at 46.3 Mi on the race guide, but I show it was closer to 48.5 Mi (which makes sense since the race is actually 103 Mi in total). I was defeated from the rain and just simply staggered up to the aid station grabbing some coke-cola straight away to help perk me up. I was soaked and a little down mentally but spent about 12 minutes here eating some warm soup before continuing onward. The trail was relatively flat leaving Colbert's Creek aid station for like a mile, maybe a little more, and then it was back to a relentless grind back towards Mount Mitchell for another 4.5 Mi up or so. The trail was a softer trail here and held the water too well, making it impossible to keep your feet dry. It was dark now and the warmth was now fading even faster as the rain slowed to an off and on drizzle. 

Since the last section was all uphill, you guessed it - it was now all downhill for the next 7.5 Mi to Horse Toe aid station, which equated to 100 km+ (~65 Mi) behind me at this point. I only filled up my one bottle as I was not drinking as much in the colder conditions and it was a mere 4.5 Mi back to Neal Creek aid station for the second time. I was slow. I was cold. I was tired. The course was beating me up. My feet were still completely soaked and not the most comfortable situation. Onward I pressed. Night was against me I was desperately awaiting the second sunrise and a hopeful surge in my circadian rhythm. 

Photo: Schreiner Trail Photography
Sleep seemed to be winning but I willed my way forward and kept trudging on with those damp socks irritating my poor feet. I focused my mind elsewhere and fought through, but I was not moving fast at all. Downhill running was super slow now due to sore quads and sore uncomfortable feet, but I knew I just had to push. I not sure when but the first light was not enough, it took about an hour of sunlight before I finally popped awake (so to say) and felt awake again, no longer stumbling and bumbling my way along. The day also brought clear skies again and a little bit of warmth back into the air. As the sun rose I was able to put away my jacket and the long sleeve layer I had put on in the night just to keep my core warm. 

What lie in front of me was a long downhill section, a small bump (couple mile) climb and then about 3ish miles down into the finish back at Camp Grier. My descending was awful and slow at this point now reaching well over a full day of running. I had a brief thought I could break 30 hours, but then i realized where I the reality set in that I was not near that time at all. But no matter I just kept going and eventually got to the very last aid station at the bottom of the ravine on Jarrett Creek. I took just a couple minutes here getting in some fuel and then took off with a new goal of attempting to get in under 32 hours. It would be close as with 1 mile to go I got within ear shot of the camp and the trail winded around and around the mountain track away, towards, and then back away from the camp. I kept glancing at my watch as it was getting a lot closer than I thought to break this arbitrary 32-hour mark. But I pushed and ran quite fast for the last half mile to squeak in just under 32 hours.

holding up my fingers to signal my 40th 100 Mi or more finish here at Hellbender. Photo: Schreiner Trail Photography.

Final Thoughts

What a journey. One of my longer 100 mile efforts in terms of time-wise due to the nature of the terrain, combined with me being a South Texas flatlander currently, and just the curve ball of the rain storm that made it that much more interesting for us runners. Would I change anything? No. I had a blast, my heart is full from my first trip to North Carolina and getting to experience the mountains of the East [Beast] Coast. I would rank this 100 as one of the harder ones I've done in terms of my mountain 100s and would most definitely recommend this one to anyone whom wants to get into the Hardrock lottery now that they have that distinction. 

My poor feet were near trench foot like after being soaked for about 20 hours non-stop after the rainstorms. Sadly I was not wearing the best soaks for drainage, nor did I have any drop bags or spare socks, so I just had to deal with it. I survived. :) Luckily no blisters, just water damage per say.

This is the Hellbender crew whom put this event on. What a great job on executing a great race complete with excellent flagging, provided a .gpx for the runners, hosted amazing aid stations with their volunteer army, and even had GPS tracking for our family to follow along at home. The buckle is a thing of simplistic beauty as well! Thank you for a great race (I may have to come back).
Photo: Schreiner Trail Photography.

Shortly after crossing the finish I waddled over to my car, which was only like 200 feet from the finish chute, and got my towel and fresh change of clothing. My first priority was getting out of my stinky, sweaty, dirty gear and taking a shower at the provided cabins at Camp Grier - such a nice perk after a long run like this! Next was a trip over to the snack tables where the volunteers were cooking up burgers so I indulged in that offering as well. Lastly after some hydration I then went back to the cabins and lay down on one of the cots for an hour nap to perk myself up before prepping for the long journey back to Texas.

Thank you North Carolina, and thank you Run828 for the event.

Results & Data


This might be one of my favorite buckles. I love the color simplicity combined with the topography background.

Gear Used

  • Jackets - rabbit Treeline rain jacket
  • Lighting setup - kogalla RA Adventure Light (waistlamp) & Nathan Sports Halo Fire (headlamp)
  • Shirts - rabbit SS rabbitELITEtrail team kit, rabbit LS deflector 2.0 with hood
  • Shorts - rabbit 5" shredders 2-in-1 trail
  • Headwear - rabbit (rnnr) rabbitELITEtrail team kit, rabbit BOCO beanie
  • Gloves - rabbit BOCO
  • Shoes - ACSIS GEL-Trabuco 13
  • Socks - injinji
  • Hydration - NATHAN Trailmix 12L pack with (x2) 20oz soft flasks
  • Anti-Friction Lube - Trail Toes
  • Watch - Garmin fÄ“nix® 6X - Pro Solar Edition

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Thanks for checking out my race report and following along on with my blog
Next: Angeles Crest Endurance Run 100 Mi (2024-Aug-03)

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